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Vanda Alliance
Vandas and Ascocendas are the sun loving relative of Phalaenopsis, enjoying similar conditions but requiring a lot more light.
They originate from Central Asia and can be found in India, Nepal, Indonesia, Thailand, Burma, China, New Guinea and the Philippines where they climb up trees as they grow using their strong aerial roots to support them. Some varieties prefer hot, humid environments and some prefer the conditions high up in mountains, (up to 1,200 meters).
The plants are made up of a thick, fleshy, upright stem with stiff strap-like leaves that grow from the tip of the plant, alternating on opposite sides of the stem. The thick, silvery aerial roots are produced at intervals along the stem usually opposite a leaf. Food and moisture are retained in the leaves and roots. Flowers develop on short stems between the leaves usually near the top of the plant. Individual flowers should last 4 to 6 weeks.
Vanda and Ascocenda have similar shaped flowers and leaves. Vandas have larger flowers but less flowers per stem than Ascoscendas.
(Care and culture information is the same for both Vanda and Ascocenda so, for the sake of simplicity, the collective term of Vanda will be used to denote both species in the rest of this document.)
In there native habitat Vanda are epiphytes which means they cling onto plants or rocks rather than grow in soil – They are NOT parasites. Vanda can be purchased supported on bark to emulate their native conditions, in pots, in glass bowls/vases or hung up in open baskets. Imogen Stone usually supply Vanda and Ascoscenda in pots because they are more manageable and require less watering than when the roots are exposed where they will need regular daily watering or misting, (see below for more details).
Temperature: Vandas require a constant warm environment making them a good plant for the house. A minimum nighttime temperature of 16-18°C and a daytime temperature of 18-24°C are ideal. But mature established plants would be able to cope with temperatures as low as 13°C and all plants should be able to cope with temperatures as high as 32°C for short periods.
During the winter, plants may appear to stop growing and the plant may go into a period of rest. It is possible to keep them a little cooler at this time, but since most homes are centrally heated the temperatures will probably stay warm enough for the plants to continue growing. Plants that are allowed to cool to below 10°C for any length of time may go in to a dormant state for self protection.
Light: Vanda are sun loving plants requiring good light levels, even direct sun, although care should be taken to shade them from the scorching conditions of the full midday sun of high summer. They will be happy on a very sunny windowsill or conservatory with high light levels.
Water: It is important to take care and water your plant correctly. Never over water or allow the plant to become waterlogged. The roots are extremely vulnerable to over-watering when potted.
As a general rule, soak the roots well and then leave them to dry until they go silvery before watering them again. In dull, overcast conditions, water less frequently. Vanda, as with most orchids, do not like to stand in water. Always water well from the top of the pot and allow excess water to drain away. Dunking the pot in water is an acceptable way of watering but take care that you do not cross-contaminate if watering a number of plants.
If potted (without compost) you may need to water everyday on very hot and dry days but as little as twice a week in the colder slow growth periods. Exposed roots on plants hanging from bark or baskets should be misted regularly once or twice a day depending on conditions. Do not "part water" roots; i.e. always soak roots fully.
Clean rainwater is preferred by the plant but you can use filtered tap water. Try to water with tepid or room temperature water. [Tip: Leaves can grow too vigorously at the expense of flowers if the plant is kept too well watered and not given sufficient light.]
NOTE: NEVER STAND THE PLANT IN WATER OR ALLOW THE PLANT TO BECOME WATERLOGGED. This will cause the roots to rot and kill the plant.
Feed: Feed regularly, every second or third watering with a balanced orchid feed, such as Ivens Orchids’ Orchid Feed, throughout the year, although it is not necessary to feed the plant if light levels are low. If the plant looks like it is not growing it may be in a rest period or dormant when feeding can be withheld for a month or two. Do not be tempted to use a strong solution of feed; little and often is best. The plants will also benefit from an occasional flushing through of fresh water to remove any accumulating salts.
Air Humidity: Good ventilation (not drafts) and moist air is essential. The humidity can be raised by placing the plant on a tray of moist gravel or pebbles. 50-80% humidity is ideal. Vanda benefit from high humidity more than most orchids and a light misting will help maintain high humidity; this is best done in the morning.
Spring into summer is the main growth period for Vandas; ventilation is very important at this time. If they get very hot during the summer it is advisable to increase ventilation to allow for the leaves to cool down, but high humidity is also important especially when the temperatures are high.
After Flowering: Vanda flowers last for approximately 4 to 6 weeks. After Flowering, cut the old flowering stems off when the flowers are over. New flowers spikes will be produced from higher up the plant when the plant is ready.
Note: Some Vanda species flower once a year and some hybrid varieties can flower several times a year. Ascoscendas tend to flower much more frequently than Vanda.
Pots, Vases, Baskets - What's best?: Vanda roots need AIR, LIGHT and HUMIDITY to maintain maximum health. In ideal circumstances the roots should be kept as free as possible and, if all other conditions are right, the roots will then grow strong and stay healthy. But maintaining Vanda with roots hanging freely in the house is impractical because they need to be watered everyday and the water drips onto the floor.
Placing the whole plant in a glass vase or bowl looks nice until the vase turns green from algae growth and watering is quite difficult too. Glass vases or bowls are not a good solution for growing plants on.
Potting in bark or compost can be satisfactory for a short period (eg during flowering) but the roots do not grow well when confined and they will be more susceptible to infection and root rot.
Plants potted in ceramic or terracotta pots with good ventliation holes is a good compromise. The roots stay healthy if they are not confined too tightly and they are easy to water. They still need to be watered at least twice a week but this is the best compromise we have come across which is why Imogen Stone supply Vanda potted in this way. Vanda are not the easiest plants to look after but they are so beautiful that they probably deserve pampering!
Repotting: Vandas do not like to be "messed around" too much. They will go into a dormant state if they are shocked and they can take a few months to recover. However, this "self preservation mechanism" makes them great survivors and it is very difficult to kill a Vanda by mistreatment alone.
Imogen Stone recommends potting or repotting a Vanda in the following circumstances:
(a) It is hanging in a basket or on bark and you are finding it difficult to maintain;
(b) It is in bark or compost and the roots do not look healthy;
(c) The plant has simply outgrown the pot it is currently in.
Potting Vanda without bark or compost requires a method of supporting the plant in the pot so that the roots can hang in the pot. Imogen Stone use strong wire attached to the basket and threaded through small holes in the pot to support plants in the pot. Please call Imogen Stone customer service if you require more information on 0844 818 4480.
Repotting should only be carried out after flowering and when the new roots develop, ideally during the spring and early summer. Remove any dead or dying roots because they can become a source of infection. Care should be taken not to damage the healthy roots, take great care not to damage new growths wherever possible. Always soak the roots when repotting to make them pliable and easier to handle.
Good quality, ornamental ceramic and stone orchid pots are available from Imogen Stone.
Pests: Prevention is always better than cure so look for good, healthy plants to start with and keep them that way with a clean environment for your plants. Throw away old, weak or infested houseplants and maintain good housekeeping in the greenhouse. Most often seen pests are scale insect, thrip, red spider mite and mealy bug. They will weaken the plant if left unchecked but, if found early enough, they may be cleaned off with soapy water or a cotton bud dipped in a small amount of methylated spirits; otherwise treat with a specific systemic insecticide.
Buying Tips: Always buy good quality orchids from a reputable supplier and look for clean healthy plants. Plants often lose flowers and buds when shocked. A plant can be shocked by extreme temperatures, especially for long periods, by drafts, by very dry or wet conditions by light deprivation.
If buying plants in flower, check the flowers are not damaged or that the pollen caps are still on the flowers. If these get knocked off by poor handling or contaminated by poor storage or transport conditions the flowers will very quickly discolour or “go over”. Unless you have ideal transportation and growing conditions, buying a plant with immature buds may be a mistake as plants can be sensitive to being moved during the early stages of flower development. Look for plants with fairly advanced flowers; buds become plump just before they are ready to open.. Don’t be afraid to buy a plant whose flowers are nearly all out but note that Vanda flowers grow larger as they develop so avoid plants where all of the flowers are fully grown.
Handy Hints: Keep your plants clean and healthy by occasionally cleaning the leaves with a mixture of 1 tablespoon of olive oil and a few drops of washing up liquid mixed in warm water. Using a sponge cloth, wipe over the leaves with the mixture.
Special Notes: Sometimes plantlets, (Keikis,) develop from the base of the plant or between lower leaves. Allow these to develop a few roots then you can remove them from the parent plant and pot them up.
Our orchids are a fine example of Imogen Stone quality. Our customers know that we only supply the highest quality products at great prices and that is why they come back time and time again. So why not join them and become an Imogen Stone customer too? You will never want to buy flowers from anywhere else!
For Orchids - think www.imogenstone.com
For more information about orchid care visit our Plant and Orchid Care page.
[Disclaimer: Imogen Stone Ltd has provided this information as a free-of-charge service and every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained herein. Sharp knives and secateurs are dangerous and they are used at the users own risk. Imogen Stone Ltd. does not accept responsibility for any damage to plants or persons caused by following the instructions contained herein.]
© Copyright Imogen Stone Ltd 2009: All rights reserved.
Other orchid care pages are available for: Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Miltonia, Odontoglossum Alliance, Paphiopedilum and Cypripedium, Phalaenopsis, and Zygopetalum.