Flower Care

New breeding and growing techniques mean most flowers last much longer than they used to. And by following these few simple steps you can get extra life and pleasure from your flowers.

TOP TIPS FOR CUT FLOWER CARE

With a sharp knife cut 3cm (1") off all stem ends at a slant.
Strip off all leaves below the water line.
Keep vases very clean; and use fresh, lukewarm water.
Always use a proprietary cut flower food.
Keep flowers away from direct sunlight and heat; and ripening fruit.
Remove faded flowers as they occur.
Remember to top up the water, adding more flower food.

ADVICE FROM THE EXPERTS

Do...

use lukewarm water - it has less oxygen, which prevents air bubbles in the stem blocking water uptake.
clean your vases thoroughly after use - bacteria kills flowers.
strip off all leaves that will be below the waterline, to help keep the water clean and direct energy to the flowers
use flower food as instructed. It contains flower-friendly sugars to feed the flowers and encourage buds to open; preservatives to lengthen their life; an acid-balancer; and anti-bacterial agents, in an easy-to-use sachet.

Don't...

try old wives' tale remedies in your vases - they don't work! Coins do nothing. Lemonade or sugar will help flowers open but will also encourage bacteria to breed, shortening their life. Aspirin makes the water more acidic, but does nothing else. Bleach may kill the flowers and certainly won't encourage buds to open. And piercing tulip stems will only encourage bacteria to enter the wound.
break, crush, hammer or split the stems - bacteria grows on damaged stalks, and they can't take up water.
put daffodils in mixed arrangements - they release latex slime that affects other flowers
put flowers near ripening fruit, or leave dying flowers in with the rest - they release tiny amounts of ethylene gas which ages flowers.
place flowers in a draught or bright sunlight, and keep them away from central heating.

Imogen Stone uses the very highest quality fresh flowers from growers around the world to create beautiful hand-tied flower bouquets. The bouquets are packaged in specially designed boxes that will protect the hand-tied flowers during their journey - on arrival they are guaranteed to impress the recipient. To view our current range of beautiful hand-tied flower bouquets please visit: www.imogenstone.com

Content kindly provided by FP&A.

Orchid Care

Cattleya Care Information

Colourful, flamboyant and much sought after, Cattleya (CAT-lee-uh) have some of the largest single orchid blooms of all, some measuring over 15cm across. They originate from the jungles of Central and South America, particularly Brazil, Mexico and Guatemala, where they grow as epiphytes producing huge clump-like plants. Unfortunately, their attractiveness has been their downfall and over the past century or so they have been extensively collected. This, together with the destruction of their native habitat, makes species Cattleya quite rare. All the plants sold as pot plants are hybrids of which there are many and varied.

Close relatives of the Cattleya include Laelia, Brassavola and Sophronitis. All of these genera will readily interbreed with Cattleya producing many varied and exciting hybrids.

Cattleyas have strong sausage-shaped pseudo-bulbs from which one or two thick leathery leaves develop. The plant will keep these leaves for many years and they, together with the pseudo-bulbs, will store water and nutrients for the plant. New pseudo-bulbs are produced each year and are carried on a rhizome that grows along the surface of the pot. Roots are strong and silvery growing in and over the pot; they will cling onto anything in their way.

The plants can be divided into two main groups according to their leaves. Single-leaved or uni-foliate species have fewer but larger, softer flowers. Twin-leaved or bi-foliate have smaller flowers with a heavier texture but there are many more on a stem. The plants flower mainly in spring or autumn, depending on the variety. Buds are produced within a protective sheath enabling them to develop in safety; the sheath then splits and the fully developed bud emerges into a flower, many of which are very fragrant. Individual flowers last for 3 to 4 weeks. The flowers last well as cut bloom and make excellent corsages.

Generally speaking, most Cattleya have an active growth period when they flower, then, normally during the winter, plants may appear to stop growing and may go into a period of rest. It is possible to keep them a little cooler at this time but, since most homes are centrally heated, the temperatures will probably stay warm enough for the plants to continue growing.

Temperature: Most Cattleyas enjoy intermediate green house conditions but may be grown in a sunny room or sun lounge. Minimum night time temp. of 10-14�C and day time temp. of 18-25�C. These temperatures can be a few degrees higher during the summer.

Light: Good light is essential but shade from full midday sun during the summer as this will scorch the leaves. If plants are to be kept in a greenhouse, shade should be given from late spring until autumn. Full light can be given in autumn and winter.

Water: During the spring and summer, when a constant rate of growth is required, plants should not be allowed to dry out and compost should be kept evenly moist. Expect to have to water twice a week making sure the compost is being well soaked but not allowing the plant to sit in water. Always drain plants after watering.

After flowering, some plants appear to stop growing. In these cases, watering can be gradually reduced to watering only when the compost appears to be dried out, but ensure the bulbs or leaves don�t shrivel. This will induce a rest period which, although not essential, can benefit the plant by allowing it to build up energy to produce bigger flowers in the next season. At the end of the rest period, as new growth is showing at the base of the plant, resume normal watering.

Not all plants need a rest period, especially the new smaller hybrids which actively grow throughout the year. Larger plants may be watered by dunking in a bucket of water to allow the compost to soak up sufficient moisture. Clean rainwater is preferred by the plant but you can use filtered tap water.

Note: Over watering can cause leaves and buds to turn yellow and drop off. Never stand the plant in water for more than 10 minutes.

Feed: Cattleya only need feeding from March to September. A balanced orchid fertilizer, such as Ivens Orchids� Orchid Feed, can be given at the time of watering once every two weeks. Do not feed during the rest period.

Air Humidity: High humidity (50-60%) and Good ventilation (not drafts) are essential but care should be taken to prevent any sudden drops in temperature. A light misting may be beneficial during the summer, especially during very hot weather, as this will help to cool the leaves. It is important to note that during the summer the plant is actively growing and developing new pseudo-bulbs and flower sheaths. If these partly ripened growths are made too wet and/or cold they may easily rot off; this could be caused by over misting or dampened sheaths. Also, bad ventilation may cause bud drop or botrytis.

Tip: Plants can be placed on trays of moist pebbles to help create local humidity.

After Flowering: Old flower stems can be cut back taking care not to cut too close to the base of stem where the leaf joins as they have a tendency to weep and this may cause dieback. A little powdered sulphur can be used to dry up the wound, but this is not essential.

Repotting: Cattleyas should only need to be repotted every 2 to 3 years when the leading bulb is over the rim of the pot and the roots are crawling over the sides of the pot. The best time to pot is when you can see new growths are developing but before the new roots have grown; this is normally during spring. When repotting, look to use a pot big enough to accommodate at least 2 years further growth. Cattleyas grow in one direction, so position the plant to the side of the pot with the oldest section of plant closest to the edge of the pot; this will allow the new growths room to grow without the pot becoming unstable. Always use good quality orchid compost, such as Ivens Orchids� Composts, which includes a good medium bark, ideal for growing Cattleya. If plants become too big, they can be divided.

Basic Potting Technique: Remove plant from its old pot and inspect the condition of the root-ball. Shake off old compost. If roots are firm and in good condition, pot up allowing space for 2 years growth. If using bark based compost, soak it well before potting. Using a clean pot, support the plant in the pot while you feed fresh orchid compost around the root-ball; remember to position the plant to one edge of the pot to allow the new growth room to develop. Do not pack the compost in too firmly as these plants prefer a free draining pot. After potting, leave the plant 2 weeks to dry out; during this time the newly potted plant will quickly make new root growth. After this period, commence watering as normal.

If the plant has only a few good roots or is a division, it is possible that it will not cope with the drying out technique described above, which may cause too much dehydration or damage the plant. In these cases, only use dampened compost for potting but still allow the compost to dry out before any more water is given, then water sparingly for the first 4 weeks after repotting before recommencing the normal watering procedure, (see above).

Basic Dividing Technique: Mature plants can be divided: They should have at least 8 pseudo-bulbs so that any new divisions have at least 4 good sized bulbs and a new growth. If divisions are smaller than this they may take 2 or 3 years to develop flowers. The time to divide is when you can see new growth but before the new roots have developed.

Remove the plant from its pot and shake off compost. Look at the plant and decide where best to cut the rhizome. The rhizome can be very tough � You will need a sharp knife or secateurs. Make sure each division is a good size as described above. The leading division(s) will show new growths and you will be left with an older part or back division. This back division can also be potted up as the old growths normally carry one or two dormant buds at their base and these will be encouraged to grow now that the leading growths have been removed.

Any healthy, leafless pseudo-bulbs, also known as back bulbs, can be potted up individually in small pots.

An alternative method of propagation is as follows: During the autumn, once the plant has either flowered or finished its season�s growth and is still in its old pot, cut the rhizome as required and leave plant undisturbed during the rest period; then, in the spring when the plant starts to show signs of growth, the bulb behind the severed rhizome will also start to grow similar to the newer front part of the plant. This method allows the older part of the plant to get going earlier and should offer a better success rate for flowering in the same season. During the spring, repot both sections of the plant into separate pots using fresh dampened compost as described above.

Note: Cattleya roots are very fragile and, although it is practically impossible to repot or divide a plant without some damage, great care should be taken to keep this to the minimum.

Pests: Prevention is always better than cure so look for good healthy plants to start with and keep them that way with a clean environment for your plants. Throw away old, weak or infested houseplants and maintain good housekeeping in the greenhouse. Most often seen pests are scale insect and aphids which will weaken the plant if left unchecked. The scale and aphids may be cleaned off with soapy water, if found early enough, otherwise treat with a specific systemic insecticide.

Buying Tips: Always buy good quality orchids from a reputable supplier and look for clean healthy plants. If buying plants in flower, check the flowers are not damaged or that the pollen caps are still on the flower. If these get knocked off by poor handling or contaminated by poor storage or transport conditions, the flowers will very quickly discolor or �go over�. Check for healthy buds and if there are other sheaths on the plant gently feel to see if they contain developing buds. Look for healthy leaves: Cattleyas keep their leaves for a long time so they quite often have a few scars, which is normal, but they should not show too many signs of scorch or damage. Look for plants whose flower buds look quite plump and ready to open.

Handy Hints: Check plants regularly for pests and treat straight away. Keep your plants clean and healthy by occasionally cleaning the leaves with a mixture of 1 tablespoon of olive oil and a few drops of washing up liquid mixed in warm water. Using a sponge cloth, wipe over the leaves with the mixture.

Note: To help prevent flower and bud drop, keep plants away from drafts, radiators and other heat sources.

Special Notes: Pseudo-bulbs sometimes grow horizontally and may need some support. To do this, secure short canes in the pot and tie the bulbs to them with raffia or twine. This will help to keep the plant looking tidy and allow the flowers to develop in a more upright manner.

Imogen Stone use and recommend Ivens Orchids’ fertilizer, compost and sundries. For more information go to www.ivensorchids.co.uk.

[Disclaimer: Imogen Stone Ltd has provided this information as a free-of-charge service and every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained herein. Sharp knives and secateurs are dangerous and they are used at the users own risk. Imogen Stone Ltd. does not accept responsibility for any damage to plants or persons caused by following the instructions contained herein.]

Cymbidium Care Information

Also known as the boat orchid, Cymbidium (sim-BID-ee-um) hybrids descend from species originating mainly in the Himalayas, the mountainous regions of India and China. They can also be found throughout the Far East: through Japan, Philippines and Australia.

Cymbidium orchids are large evergreen plants; they have “strappey”, grass-like leaves shooting from pseudo-bulbs at the base of the plant. They are clump-forming and have fleshy roots.

Cymbidiums are usually grown in conservatories or cool greenhouses. Different varieties flower between September and April. There are two main types of Cymbidium, standard and miniature. Standard Cymbidium – differentiated from miniature cymbidium by the size of the pseudo-bulbs and flowers – prefer cooler conditions to miniatures.

Flower spikes are produced in autumn or winter from the newest pseudo-bulbs. Initially they look like leaf growths but the flower spikes tend to be rounder at the tip and more fingerlike than leaf growths. A flower spike may carry 1 to 30 blooms depending on the variety

Temperature: When in flower, Cymbidium like cool house temperatures of between 15-20°C. The warmer they are kept, the shorter the flowers will last.

In summer, when the plants are out of flower, they need hot bright days (25-29°C) and cool nights (10-15°C) to initiate flower spikes. This can be achieved by setting the pots outdoors during summer under dappled shade away from midday sun, (to avoid leaf burn). Feed and water regularly during this period. The plants should spike up when the temperatures fall in the autumn to below 10°C. Bring the plant indoors before the first frost. Once the plants have formed their flower spikes and the buds are well developed they can tolerate slightly warmer temperatures of 15–20°C.

Note: To help prevent flower and bud drop, keep plants away from drafts, radiators and other heat sources.

Light: Cymbidium like plenty of light in the summer, but not full sun. A combination of long hot days and cool nights during July and August will initiate the flower spikes. This is also a good time to feed the plants with a high potassium feed or “bloom booster”. Plants need less light when in bud and/or bloom during the winter.

Note: Direct sunlight can burn the bloom and leaves.

Water: At least once a week throughout the year. Water from the top and allow any excess to drain away. If the plant is large, it may be easier to submerge it in a bucket of water before allowing it to drain. Clean rainwater is preferred by the plant but you can use tap water if necessary. Do not allow the compost to become waterlogged. Water weekly as a general rule but if the plants are kept in a warm environment they will need to be watered more frequently.

Note: Never stand the plant in water for more than 10 minutes.

Feed: As orchids go, Cymbidium are quite hungry and require regular feeding to produce good flowers. Feed once a week during spring, summer and autumn using a balanced orchid fertilizer, such as Ivens Orchids’ Orchid Feed, and once every two weeks during the winter. A high potassium feed or “bloom booster” can be applied from July to September instead of the balanced feed.

Air Humidity: Good ventilation (not drafts) and moist air are essential. The humidity can be raised by placing the plant on a tray of moist gravel or pebbles. 50% humidity is ideal.

After Flowering: Cymbidiums will not flower if kept too warm or with insufficient light. They flower once a year and usually for at least six weeks. Once flowering is over, cut off old flower stems near to the base. To initiate the next flower growth they must have cool nights throughout the spring and summer months. Stand your plant outside towards the end of May until the middle of September. Stand the plant on a slightly raised base to avoid slugs getting into the pot. Early morning sun is ideal but provide some shade against strong sunlight. Remember to continue feeding the plants during this period.

Repotting: Repotting and dividing are best done in spring after flowering but only if your plant has outgrown its pot – Cymbidium like to be very restricted in their pots. A specimen plant can be produced by potting up regularly. A larger plant usually produces more spikes but sometimes a plant that has been mistreated or just becomes too old may benefit from dividing as this may regenerate it. Use orchid compost, such as Ivens Orchids Cymbidium Compost, that is moderately free draining whilst retaining some moisture.

Basic Repotting Technique: Cymbidium are tough plants and repotting them, and especially dividing them, can be a very strenuous job; you will need a strong knife and sharp secateurs.

Tap plant out of its old pot or if very pot-bound you may need to cut the pot away; the plant will be easier to remove from the pot if it is dry. Inspect the condition of the root-ball: In a healthy plant, the pot should be almost completely full of firm creamy roots with pale green growing tips. Generally, a cymbidium will grow in one direction so it will have a “back”, (where the oldest growths are,) and a “front”, (where the youngest growths will shoot). If you can see a directional trend in the plant to be potted, bear this in mind when positioning the plant within the pot and allow space for the new growths to develop without making the plant look lop sided. Use a pot big enough for you to get two fingers around the root-ball between the roots and the inside of the pot. Holding the plant upright, feed compost around the root-ball; there probably isn’t a lot of room between the roots and the sides of the new pot but pack in as much compost as you can, making sure it goes right to the bottom of the pot where you want the new roots to grow.

Cymbidium can be potted firmly. Always dampen down the compost before potting and water as normal after repotting.

Dividing: A plant that needs to be divided will be large and old with many pseudo-bulbs. Some may be so old they no longer carry leaves; these are known as back-bulbs and are useful to the plant as storage organs for water and nutrients. The plant may also have bulbs that are black and soft; these are no use to the plant and must be removed. When dividing, look at the plant to see if it shows natural breaks between the growths where it could be divided. The intention is to divide the plant into two or three good sized plants that have at least 3 or 4 pseudo-bulbs. Tap the plant out of its pot as described in ‘Repotting’ above, then cut through the plant using a strong sharp knife, trying to avoid cutting through a bulb or new growth. Once you have your divisions, shake off any loose compost teasing out any dead or loose bits and remove any old, brown, soggy or damaged roots. Also remove any old black or soft bulbs, cutting them away if necessary. The live roots that are left can now be trimmed to about 10 to 15cm; this will help prevent damaging them during re-potting and allow the plant to regenerate. Do not worry that it looks to be a large amount of root to remove; a healthy plant will very soon develop new roots and the plant will benefit by repotting in this way. Using a pot big enough for the next year or twos growth, support the plant with the oldest pseudo-bulbs, (the “back”,) at the edge of the pot and the “front” of the plant toward the centre of the pot. Cover the base of the pot with a small amount of compost then feed fresh orchid compost around the root-ball. Always dampen down the compost well before potting. Firm the compost with your fingers as you go.

The plant should not be watered for 2 weeks after dividing; thereafter the leaves may be lightly misted and watered sparingly over a period of about 8 weeks. This allows the new roots to develop and search for moisture within the compost stimulating good root growth; over watering would cause the plant to rot. Regular watering and feeding can resume once the plant starts to feel secure in the pot and new top growth can be seen.

Although dividing may sound drastic, provided it is done early in the growth season, (ideally March or April,) the plant will have sufficient time to produce new roots and still flower in that season. This is one of the reasons why the plant should not be over potted: i.e. the bigger the pot, the more energy the plant needs to make roots and the less energy it has to flower.

Handy Tip: A leafless back bulb can also be removed and propagated by potting up in its own, very small pot.

Pests: Prevention is always better than cure so look for good healthy plants to start with and keep them that way with a clean environment for your plants. Throw away old, weak or infested houseplants and maintain good housekeeping in the greenhouse. Most often seen pests are scale insect, aphids, red spider mite and slugs. All of these will weaken the plant if left unchecked. If found early enough, the scale and aphids may be cleaned off with soapy water, otherwise, treat with a specific systemic insecticide.

Buying Tips: Always buy good quality orchids from a reputable supplier and look for clean healthy plants. If buying plants in flower, check the flowers are not damaged and that the pollen caps are still on the flower, (if these get knocked off by poor handling or contaminated by poor storage or transport conditions, the flowers will very quickly discolor or “go over”. Unless you have ideal transportation and growing conditions, buying a plant with immature buds may be a mistake as some plants can be sensitive to being moved during the early stages of flower development. Look for plants whose flower buds look quite plump and ready to open. Don’t be afraid to buy a plant whose flowers are nearly all out, especially during the cooler months. Providing they are not kept too warm, Cymbidiums stay in bloom for many weeks even once all the flowers have opened and give a marvelous display.

Handy Hints: Keep your plants clean and healthy by occasionally cleaning the leaves with a mixture of 1 tablespoon of olive oil and a few drops of washing up liquid mixed in about 300ml of warm water. Using a sponge cloth, wipe over the leaves with the mixture. As old leaves die they fall off leaving behind dry brown bases. These can be removed by stripping or pulling away from the pseudo-bulbs. This helps to make the plant look tidy and prevents bugs from hiding around the plant base.

Imogen Stone use and recommend Ivens Orchids’ fertilizer, compost and sundries. For more information go to www.ivensorchids.co.uk.

Dendrobium Care Information

Please note: There are hundreds of species of Dendrobium and the preferred environmental conditions vary between them. These culture notes are applicable to Dendrobium as supplied by Ivens Orchids.

Dendrobium (den-DROH-bee-um) hybrids are descended from species originating mainly in eastern Asia and Australia. The majority of Dendrobiums available from Ivens Orchids are Phalaenopsis type hybrids that require similar growing conditions to Phalaenopsis.

The second type of Dendrobium grown at Ivens Orchids is Dendrobium kingianum; these require cooler growing conditions.

1. Dendrobium Phalaenopsis

Sometimes known as Singapore orchids, these beautiful plants are easy to keep in normal home conditions. They have lots of strong coloured blooms ranging from pure white through pale to vibrant pink, purple to black and lemon to bright green. They will happily grow alongside Phalaenopsis although they may need a little more light to get them to flower well. The flowers are held on sprays that shoot from the side or top of fleshy stems, known as canes, that are actually elongated pseudo-bulbs and are used as storage organs for the plant.

Temperature: Phalaenopsis type Dendrobium prefer higher temperatures of 18-28°C.

Light: Dendrobium like plenty of bright filtered sunlight but avoid direct sunlight that may scorch the leaves. They can be difficult to re-flower if they do not receive sufficient light.

Water: Once a week throughout the year. Water from the top and allow any excess to drain away. Clean rainwater is preferred by the plant but you can use filtered tap water.

Note: NEVER STAND THE PLANT IN WATER. This will cause the roots to rot and kill the plant.

Feed: Once a week using a balanced orchid fertilizer such as Ivens Orchids� Orchid Feed.

Air Humidity: Moist air is essential. The humidity can be raised by placing the plant on a tray of moist gravel or pebbles, and spraying a mist of water above the plant once a day will help. 60-70% humidity is ideal.

2. Dendrobium kingianum

Dendrobium kingianum have tapering pseudo-bulbs 15-30cm high with 10cm long leaves crowded near the top of each. They flower in the spring and very often have a strong hyacinth-type scent to the flowers. The flowers are about 1-2cm across and colours are pure white and pink to purple.

Temperature: Dendrodium kingianum prefer intermediate temperatures of 13-16°C at night and 18-24°C during the day. To initiate flowers, the nighttime temperature should be dropped to 13°C during winter months.

Light: Dendrobium like plenty of bright filtered sunlight but avoid direct sunlight that may burn the leaves. They can be difficult to re-flower if they do not receive sufficient light.

Water: Once a week throughout the year, water from the top and allow any excess to drain away. Clean rainwater is preferred by the plant but you can use filtered tap water if necessary.

Note: NEVER STAND THE PLANT IN WATER. This will cause the roots to rot and kill the plant.

Feed: Once every other week using a balanced orchid fertilizer, such as Ivens Orchids� Orchid Feed.

Air Humidity: Moist air is essential. The humidity can be raised by placing the plant on a tray of moist gravel or pebbles and spraying a mist of water above the plant once a day will help, but is not essential. 50% humidity is ideal.

General Dendrobium Culture Information

After Flowering: Dendrobium will flower for 6 to 10 weeks. Cut off old flowers near the base of the stem but do not cut the cane.

Repotting: Compost seldom remains in good condition for more than two years and, like most other orchids, the plant will benefit from occasional repotting. This is best done just as the new roots and shoots are developing. Older plants can be divided by splitting large clumps into 4 or 5 canes. Make sure the new plants have at least three old canes with the new ones, as the flowers will develop on last season�s growth and the old cane will store energy for the plant. Use a clear pot and good quality orchid compost such as Ivens Orchids� General Purpose Compost. Repotting and dividing classes are available from Ivens Orchids.

Basic Repotting Technique: Tap the plant out of its old pot and inspect the condition of the root-ball. Shake off any decaying compost and remove all the dead, soft or black roots. Remove any old black or soft canes with no roots but be sure to leave the old canes if they are sound and healthy. These will help to support the plant should it become stressed after repotting. Using a pot big enough to take a year�s new growth, support the plant in the centre of the pot while you feed fresh orchid compost around the root-ball. Do not pack the compost in too firmly as these plants prefer a free draining pot. Always dampen down the compost before potting and only water sparingly for the first 4 to 6 weeks after repotting allowing the plant to get used to the new conditions.

Pests: Prevention is always better than cure so look for good healthy plants to start with and keep them that way with a clean environment for your plants. Throw away old, weak or infested houseplants and maintain good housekeeping in the greenhouse. Most often seen pests are scale insect, aphids, mealy bug and red spider mite. All of these will weaken the plant if left unchecked. The scale and aphids may be cleaned off with soapy water, if found early enough, otherwise treat with a specific systemic insecticide.

Buying Tips: Always buy good quality orchids from a reputable supplier and look for clean healthy plants. The leaves are a good indication of a plants health; they should be pert and of good colour. Unless you have ideal transportation and growing conditions, buying a plant with immature buds may be a mistake as some plants can be sensitive to being moved during the early stages of flower development. Look for plants whose flower buds look quite plump and ready to open.

Handy Hint: Keep your plants clean and healthy by occasionally cleaning the leaves with a mixture of 1 tablespoon of olive oil and a few drops of washing up liquid mixed in warm water. Using a sponge cloth, wipe over the leaves with the mixture.

Note: To help prevent flower and bud drop, keep plants away from drafts, radiators and other heat sources.

Imogen Stone use and recommend Ivens Orchids’ fertilizer, compost and sundries. For more information go to www.ivensorchids.co.uk.

Miltonia Care Information

Miltonia (mil-TOE-nee-uh) are part of the Odontoglossum alliance and, whilst plants tend to be smaller than other Odontoglossums, their flowers are large, colourful and quite often scented.

Commonly known as the pansy orchid, they originate from Columbia but most of the plants purchased today are hybrids. They are compact, clump-forming plants with flat, oval-shaped pseudo-bulbs from which 1 to 3 leaves form and one or more flowering spikes are produced. Flowers are large and quite often scented.

Flowering: The flowering season is usually during late spring to early summer although newer hybrids have extended the season and it is possible to see Miltonia flowering throughout the year. The flower spikes grow from the new bulbs. Individual flower stems may last for 4 to 6 weeks.

Successful flowering requires low temperatures and restricted watering during the winter, whilst maintaining relatively high humidity and very good ventilation.

Temperature: Intermediate conditions are required for most hybrids with a nighttime temperature of 16-18�C and a daytime temperature of 18-24�C. In summer, the maximum temperature should be around 24-27�C; if they are kept higher than this for any length of time they may not flower. In winter, the temperature should be kept above 14�C; if they are allowed to get colder than this extra care should be taken to water less.

Note: To help prevent flower and bud drop, keep plants away from drafts, radiators and other heat sources.

Light: Good light in winter but during the summer months they need to be shaded from direct sunlight. A north facing windowsill is ideal. If you notice a red pigmentation to the leaves this may be an indication that the plant is getting too much light and they need to be moved to a more shady position.

Water: Keep compost evenly moist, but not waterlogged, throughout the year. Always water from the top, avoid getting water on the foliage and allow any excess to drain away. Plants grow most actively during the summer when they should be watered once a week. The autumn is the time of year when the pseudo-bulbs are ripening and, to encourage flowering, plants can be kept slightly on the dry side until they start to flower. When in flower, water more often.

NOTE: NEVER STAND THE PLANT IN WATER OR ALLOW THE PLANT TO BECOME WATERLOGGED. This will cause the roots to rot and kill the plant.

Miltonia are very fussy about water and will not tolerate hard water. Clean rainwater is preferred by the plant. Do not use water softened by a chemical water softener as this contains saline salts and will kill any plant.

Feed: Miltonia need regular feeding with a weak solution of orchid feed, especially in the summer when it is best to feed every other watering. Use a balanced orchid fertilizer, such as Ivens Orchids� Orchid Feed. During the autumn, feeding once a month should be sufficient. They do not need to be fed in winter.

Air Humidity: Good humidity levels are needed, (about 50-60%,) so moist air is essential; they also require good air circulation (not drafts) to prevent botrytis or bacterial/fungal infection. The plant can be placed on a tray of moist pebbles to help with local humidity or kept in a room where humid air is present such as a bathroom, kitchen, utility room or conservatory. After Flowering: Cut off old flower stems near to the base. Next seasons flowers will develop from new pseudo-bulbs.

Repotting: Miltonia will benefit from repotting every other spring, the best time being as the new roots and shoots are developing. It is best not to repot in the summer. It is important to use orchid compost which has a very open texture usually made from a mix of moss and bark. Special orchid compost is available from Ivens Orchids.

Do not be tempted to use too big a pot; Miltonia do better when their roots are restricted so use the smallest pot possible. At the end of the season, it is normal to lose the odd lower leaf or two and new leaves should develop from the top of the pseudo-bulbs.

Whilst Miltonias can be divided in a similar way to other Odontoglossums, they do not respond well to constant dividing. It is far better to pot up regularly and grow a Miltonia into a mature specimen plant.

Basic Repotting Technique: Tap the plant out of its old pot and inspect the condition of the root-ball. Shake off any decaying compost and remove all the dead, soft or black roots. Remove any old black or soft pseudo-bulbs with no roots but make sure to leave at least 2 older pseudo-bulbs or �back bulbs�. These pseudo-bulbs help to support the plant should it become stressed after repotting. Use the smallest pot possible. Support the plant in the centre of the pot and feed fresh orchid compost around the root-ball. Do not pack the compost in too firmly, as these plants prefer a free draining pot. Always dampen down the compost before potting and only water sparingly for the first 2 weeks after repotting allowing the plant to get used to the new compost.

Pests: Prevention is always better than cure so look for good healthy plants to start with and keep them that way with a clean environment for your plants. Throw away old, weak or infested houseplants and maintain good housekeeping in the greenhouse. Most often seen pests are scale insect, aphids, thrip, bush snail and red spider mite. All of these will weaken the plant if left unchecked. The scale and aphids may be cleaned off with soapy water, (if found early enough,) otherwise treat with a specific systemic insecticide.

Buying Tips: Always buy good quality orchids from a reputable supplier and look for clean healthy plants. Unless you have ideal transportation and growing conditions, buying a plant with immature buds may be a mistake as some plants can be sensitive to being moved during the early stages of flower development. Look for plants whose flower buds look quite plump and ready to open.

Special Notes: If new leaves come through �concertinaed�, this is normally due to erratic watering or the plant getting too hot or drying out and is most likely to occur during the summer. Make sure the plant is regularly watered and also try increasing humidity and cooling down the leaves by a light overhead misting of the foliage.

Imogen Stone use and recommend Ivens Orchids’ fertilizer, compost and sundries. For more information go to www.ivensorchids.co.uk.

Phalaenopsis Care Information

Commonly know as the moth orchid, Phalaenopsis, (pronounced fal-en-OP-sis,) are the ultimate house plant. They are easy to grow in our centrally heated homes and flower for an incredibly long time: Expect at least six weeks but don’t be surprised if your plant is still flowering after six months!

Phalaenopsis have fleshy, oval leaves that form a crown at the base of the plant, and thick silvery aerial roots. A healthy plant can have four or more leaves that are used by the plant to process and store nutrients and energy. It is common for the plant to lose and replace leaves each year.

Phalaenopsis that are cultivated in greenhouses do not have a flowering season and flowers may occur at anytime of year. Special care should be taken when purchasing plants in the winter as they will be more prone to cold, weather changes and low light levels, any of which can cause the buds to drop off prematurely or the flowers to wilt.

In their native habitat, Phalaenopsis are epiphytes which means they cling on to trees or rocks rather than grow in soil – They are not parasites! As houseplants they are sold in clear plastic pots allowing light to get to their roots. They are potted in special orchid compost which is aerated and very free draining.

Temperature: Phalaenopsis require a constant warm environment, a minimum night temperature of 18°C and a daytime temperature of 20-24°C are ideal. Mature, established plants would be able to cope with lower and higher temperatures for short periods but they do not respond well below 16°C and above 28°C. Keep plants away from cold draughts and direct heat sources such as radiators.

Light: Phalaenopsis grow naturally in the tropical rainforests under very shady leaf canopies, so they grow best with good light, (but not direct sunlight as this can scorch the leaves).

Water: It is very important to take care and water your plant correctly. Never over water or allow the plant to become waterlogged. As a general rule, water once every one or two weeks, (depending on the temperature).
Phalaenopsis, as with most orchids, do not like to stand in water. Always water well from the top of the pot and allow excess water to drain away. Take care not to let water sit in the crown of the plant, (i.e. where the new leaves grow from the centre,) as this can very quickly cause crown rot and kill the plant. Wait until the plant is on the point of drying out and the pot feels light before giving the plant another good watering.
Tip: Check the roots through the sides of the clear pot: If they are green the plant has enough water; if they are silvery and the pot feels light it needs watering.
Clean rainwater is preferred by the plant, especially when feeding, however tap water is OK. Try to use water that is not very cold.
NEVER STAND THE PLANT IN WATER.

Feed: Unlike other plants, Phalaenopsis do not get nutrients from the soil. We recommend feeding, every other watering, regularly throughout the year with a balanced orchid feed. Do not use a strong solution of feed, little and often is the rule. We use and recommend Ivens Orchids’ fertilizer.

Air Humidity: Good ventilation, (not draughts,) and moist air are essential. The humidity can be raised by placing the plant on moist gravel or pebbles. 50-70% humidity is ideal.

Flowering: Plants need to rest after flowering and they tend not to re-flower straight away after previous flowers have died back. Healthy plants flower more frequently so maintain watering and feeding when the plant is out-of-flower and maintain the light and temperature as recommended earlier. Cut back the flowering stem after flowering to remove unsightly dying flower stems.
Flowering is not necessarily a sign of a healthy plant. Phalaenopsis will frequently flower just before they die in an attempt to pass on their genes. This is why “shocking” a plant by moving it to a colder location can make the plant flower, but do not keep it at less than 16°C.
(Question: How do you tell if a Phalaenopsis is healthy? Answer: Check the condition of its leaves and roots. The leaves should be of good colour and pert and the roots should be green or silvery but definitely not brown.)

Repotting: Ideally, repotting should be carried out in the spring when new root development is at it greatest. Always use a clean clear orchid pot and good quality compost.

Imogen Stone use and recommend Ivens Orchids’ fertilizer, compost and sundries. For more information go to www.ivensorchids.co.uk.

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